We wanted to line the sidewalk between the (old farm house-120 years old) and the (new farm house–17 years old) with raised beds, but after shopping for months, I could never find just the right ones.

I wanted beds that were at least 18 inches high. All of the ones I found that were half-way affordable were only 12 inches tall–and so expensive!

Also, many of the cheaper beds you see advertised are made of lighter weight material. We purchased the 26 gauge metal. You can get in 29, 26, and 24 gauge. 29 gauge is way too thin for raised beds. The lower the number the thicker the metal. The high ribbed version is more rigid than the low ribbed.

My husband and I have always ended up fabricating what we need, and have always ended up with a much better product at a lower cost. It seems that these raised beds were no different.

We visited our local supplier for metal roofing and purchased all of the components. Thankfully, we have an amazing farm supply that carries everything from livestock feed to commercial metal building supplies to the best of boots and jeans. It is acres under one roof–like a Costco for farm people!

The Galvalume roofing sheets come in different precut lengths: 8 foot, 10 foot, and 12 foot. I got 12 foot sheets. You would always do something different looking back. I would go with 10 foot sheet metal next time because the J-trim that goes around the top comes in 10 foot sections. That would eliminate cutting!

One sheet of metal roofing will make a raised bed. Since it is 36 inches wide, you can split it down the middle and get the two long sides 18 inch X 12 feet.

Of course, if you want a taller bed, you could go with the full piece and have a bed 36 inches tall. If you chose to do this, I would recommend adding 2 all-thread rods every 4 feet rather than one.

Material Cost:

This is for the heavier 26 gauge metal. Many of the cheaper beds you see advertised are made of flimsier 29 gauge material.

• 2 sheets 26 gauge (high ribbed) metal roofing @ 25 dollars per sheet for 12 foot length. (If you go with a shorter bed, you can do it with one sheet. My beds are a full 12 feet long, so we had to buy an additional sheet for the ends.
• 1 stick corner trim (3 inch X 3 inch)–10 feet long @ 9.25
• 3 sticks J-Trim (for a 12 foot bed). This trim also comes in 10 foot sticks. @ 13.00 each. Measure the bed size you are planning. You might be able to do it with 2 sticks. MOST METAL PLACES WILL NOT LET YOU RETURN UNUSED METAL, SO MEASURE FIRST!
• 2 rods of all-thread @ 2.70 each
• self tapping sheet metal screws
• 12 bolts and nuts for all-thread

Total cost for 1 bed 12 feet X 3 feet X 18 inches high. $103.65

The Supply List (for one bed)

• metal roofing: 2 sheets 26 gauge (high ribbed) metal roofing @ 25 dollars per sheet for 12 foot length. (If you go with a shorter bed, you can do it with one sheet. My beds are a full 12 feet long, so we had to buy an additional sheet for the ends.

• 3 sticks J-trim: for top edge. This will eliminate sharp edges around top and will also stiffen up your bed. It comes in 10 foot sticks.

• 6 feet of corner trim: (3 inch by 3 inch)

• self-tapping sheet metal screws
• 3 all-thread rods + (12 nuts and washers)–these come in 3 foot rods. These will help stabilize your bed.

• Some scrap wood for building some center supports so the sides will not bow from the weight of the dirt.

Tools :

• Skill saw: with a sheet metal blade OR a Nibbler (BE SURE TO WEAR SAFTEY GOGGLES AND GLOVES)

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.  This means, if you click on a link on my blog and make a purchase, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  THANK YOU for helping me start a college fund for Bella!  Here is a link to the NIBBLER that we use. If you like tools, you will probably want one!

• TIN SNIPS: The tin snips that we use are heavy duty. This link is to a pair of heavy duty–straight cut snips. If you order a different pair, be sure to order “straight cut.” Left hand and right hand will produced a curved cut.

• electric drill: for setting the screws
• drill bit: for drilling holes in sides for the all-thread.

Steps:

• 1) Split the sheet metal down the center line. You will end up with two 18 inch pieces. (8, 10, or 12 feet long, depending on the length you choose.)

• 2) Cut the end pieces whatever width you want your ends to be. I did 36 inches wide.
• 3) Cut corner pieces (4 pieces 18 inch long.)
• 4) Attach corner pieces to long sides first. It helps to have someone else hold it while you screw the components together.

• 5) Attach ends.

You now have a rectangular bed. All you have to do is add the top rail–(J-trim).

Easiest method: Place J-trim on top edge and mark to cut to length. Attach to sides of box with the sheet metal screws.

Method two: You can use the tin snips to notch the inside to the J-Trim at the corners and bend it around so it is one continuous piece joining on the sides. This is a little more time consuming, but seems to add a little more strength to the bed. We tried both ways.

Now it is time to add the all-thread rods and wooden support. We did not add the wood on the first two beds. I am anxious to see if there is a difference.

Drill holes in sides to match the size of your all-thread rod. Drill wood if you are using it. Insert rod and add washers and nuts.

The finished bed!

We lined the walk between the two farmhouses with 6 (12 foot) beds.

We still have work to do! The beds still have to be spaced, leveled and filled. We plan to leave 5 feet between the ends to accommodate our riding mower. I also plan to move the beds back from the walk 18 inches so the plants will not obstruct walkway. Things like squash can really spread out!

I will do another post on that next week on leveling and filling the beds, so check back in!